Thinking about the hundreds of family-owned Gulf Coast seafood joints and diners destroyed in Hurricanes Camille and Katrina makes me sad. Regrettably, there are very few left. I was intrigued when a local friend told me about Taranto’s. It’s an out-of-the-way neighborhood place that in recent years took best po'boy honors in a Gulf Coast competition. I couldn’t wait to visit, especially when I learned it’s in Biloxi’s Woolmarket community. Best po'boy on the Coast and a place called Woolmarket? What's not to like about that combination? Nothing, as I soon found out.
Taranto’s was a seafood market when Katrina hit, destroying the family’s homes and delaying Arnie Taranto’s plans to open a restaurant the following month. He has since passed on, but son and daughter-in-law Anthony and Gindy are carrying on the family tradition in a way that would undoubtedly make “Mr. Arnie” proud.
On the day of my visit, the small dining room was packed with locals and a few tourists. A group of motorcyclists occupied the back room. If you like spacious dining spaces with fancy accouterments, Taranto’s may not be your kind of place. Tables and booths are set close together, providing a friendly atmosphere and a great view of the overflowing plates of seafood, po’boys and steaks delivered to neighboring tables.
Taranto’s is known for its po’boys, but I wanted to sample additional items. My first stop was the appetizers’ section filled with everything from gumbo to crawfish tails.
I’m always intrigued by any dish with the restaurant’s name attached; therefore, I couldn’t resist ordering Taranto’s fries ($6.99). I was expecting a basket of around a dozen or so fries. Instead, I received an overflowing dinner plate filled with enough fries for two, possibly three, people. Topped with an enormous mound of sliced roast beef and gravy and cheese (I asked them to hold the jalapenos), it was large enough to qualify as an entrée.
I’m already dreaming of my next trip and the appetizers I want to try, including gumbo ($4.99-$8.29), shrimp and crawfish bisque ($4.99-$8.29), fried pickles and peppers ($4.99 each), Buffalo shrimp ($8.99), Buffalo chicken ($7.99), swamp fries topped with shrimp and crawfish bisque ($7.99), loaded fries ($6.99) and sides of seafood that include shrimp and crawfish tails ($4.99) and fried oysters (market price).
One of the longest lists of po’boy I’ve ever seen made choosing just one almost impossible. I couldn’t resist my go-to, fried shrimp. I’ve tasted many shrimp po’boys in my life, but this was one of the best and here’s why.
Many times, an excessive amount of batter and frying makes holding, not to mention eating, a shrimp po’boy an arduous task. Lumpy shrimp fall out…sauce ends up everywhere except on the shrimp and oftentimes, the po’boy bun is too crispy to enjoy. Not so with Taranto’s version.
The shrimp were delicately battered and lightly fried. No overpowering seasonings or taste of oil was evident in any bite. Lightly-seasoned, tangy remoulade sauce was the perfect topping, along with lettuce and tomatoes that all fit perfectly into the perfectly-crisp bun. All in all, it was one of the best shrimp po’boys I’ve ever tasted.
I chose a 6-inch version ($6.99), but a 12-inch ($13.99) is also available. Others in the same price range include catfish, crab, oyster, crawfish, chicken, barbecue pork and hamburger.
Taranto’s was included in my “best steaks of south Mississippi” list based on my friend’s recommendation. So, I couldn’t leave without placing a to-go order for a rib-eye po’boy ($12.99-half/$25.89-whole). After surviving the trip home and a night in the refrigerator, the steak was still tender, juicy and flavorful the following day. I can’t believe I’m saying this, but it may just replace shrimp as my favorite po’boy of all time.
Speaking of steaks, Taranto’s has an entire menu section devoted to them. There’s the 8 and 12-ounce ribeye ($14.99-$19.99) and 8 and 12-ounce surf and turf ($17.99-$22.99). Each dinner comes with a salad, fries and toast.
But if seafood is your choice, Taranto’s has plenty of platters on the menu. Choose from among the shrimp ($14.99), catfish ($16.99), crab ($14.99), fried crawfish ($14.99) oyster (market), chicken strip ($9.99) and seafood ($21.99) filled with shrimp, oysters, crab cake and fish.
Smaller baskets filled with shrimp, catfish, oyster and fried crawfish are also offered in the $8.99-$12.99 range. Both platters and baskets come with fries and toast and judging from the neighboring tables I glimpsed, portions are more than generous.
Daily specials with rotating po’boys and seafood baskets are available Tuesday-Friday. Each special comes with a side and a drink. The menu also includes seafood and chicken salads, burgers and extra sides ranging from onion rings to crab cakes.
I’m happy to have discovered this old school Coast restaurant in Woolmarket, where the ambiance is comforting, portions are hearty and shrimp and ribeye po’boys exceed my very high expectations. If, like me, you’re nostalgic for the old-school seafood restaurants of the past and desire a genuine Gulf Coast dining experience, set your GPS for Woolmarket and get ready for a memorable meal.
Taranto’s is located at 12404 John Lee Rd. in Biloxi (not far from Interstate 10). Hours are 11 a.m. – 9 p.m., Tuesday – Saturday. The restaurant is closed on Sunday and Monday. Call 228-392-0990 for more information.
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Kara Kimbrough is a freelance writer, public relations director and university instructor. Want any of her recipes? Email her at kkprco@yahoo.com.
"Seafood" - Google News
December 10, 2019 at 06:00PM
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Taranto's: A Gulf Coast seafood eatery with a serious po'boy reputation - Clarion Ledger
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