Any place with Dave Brubeck’s “Take Five” on the piped music playlist is likely to be at least good. At Bait, Brubeck’s tinkling is killing it—and the seafood is beyond good.
Bait is located in a converted house, a palatial one, built when Greta Garbo was a star. As we sat at the table, we imagined the dishes—with ingredients from across the county that we now take for granted—passing before the place’s first inhabitants, who likely never tasted such meals. We watched as an entire red snapper, encrusted in a golden deep-fried skin and drizzled with aioli, was delivered to the next table. Then we saw a platter of crunchy bite-sized tricorns, wonton wrappers stuffed with smoked duck and cream cheese, with a dipping tub of mango salsa alongside.
Sea fare, thanks to jet-speed transport, can now dominate a Midwestern menu, and that’s the aim here, beginning with the starters. Silver dollar–sized scallops, after a quick sear, are plated with a smear of parsnip purée, braised pear, candied carrot, and—well, we really didn’t get the half dozen popped corn kernels, but wow, what a delightfully constructed appetizer.
It could be an evolutionary fact: Oysters evolved specifically to be charbroiled. Bait gives them toppings—blue cheese, spinach and Parmesan, roasted garlic, vinegary peppery mignonette—that enhance without bullying the oyster flavor. (Note to Bait: When a party of four orders this splendid starter, kick in an extra oyster rather than just serving the standard trio.)
The absolute must-try small plate is the French fries, tossed with poached lobster chunks, then splashed with spiced aioli. After trying this combo of crisp starch and luscious protein, you may never put ketchup on your fries again.
A couple of main dishes strain the definition of sumptuous. The seafood boil is laughably extravagant. Arranged in a wok-like hammered steel balti, it’s a towering sculpture, with spidery fingers of crab, pink curls of shrimp, andouille links, corn on the cob, and red potatoes, all steamed with your choice of seasoning. (Bait’s Spice is your best bet.) The steak-and-lobster combination is a less imposing presentation but even more of a caloric carnival. Splashed with shimmering cognac sauce, a beef fillet medallion and poached lobster tail are balanced atop garlic mashed potatoes and accompanied by charred broccolini. My fillet is rendered as ordered, with a rosy center; the lobster tail pulled away from its shell, firm and tender.
Just a couple of items are without pelagic provenance. The tomahawk chop is fun. A 30-ounce prime rib with that bone handle arrives on a platter. Its juices and the herbed cognac sauce spill luxuriantly onto the polished stone table. There’s a Prime beef burger—but seriously? A burger here? No. If you want a sandwich, go with the lobster roll, which is served Connecticut-style on a toasted bun, with the lobster hunks warm and dressed with nothing more than melted butter and served on a toasted bun. It comes with fries, but you’ve already come this far, so you might as well get a side of those lobster fries, too.
House-made pasta is tossed in squid ink and tumbled with shrimp, nibbles of lump crab, and scallops, along with roasted tomatoes, herb-infused butter, and olive oil. The hearty result is a dark swirl of perfectly matched textures.
Bait’s lush presentations are reflected in the space. Lanterns illuminate the entrance. Once inside, you’ll encounter a whole school of bronzed fish, appearing to swim right out of the foyer wall. The restaurant’s divided into several rooms, including some splendidly cozy two-top alcoves that look out onto Lindell. Carpeting, stuffed chairs, and the multiroom layout all work to hush noise and enhance comfort. (Bait’s also in contention for the coveted Coolest St. Louis Restaurant Restroom Award.) A backlit wall serves as an inventive and artistic wine cellar. Speaking of wine, the selection is commendable, with prices, especially for glasses, that are more than reasonable. The “bar,” a closet-sized nook with no seating, produces some fine drinks. Try the Boulevardier, as proper a cocktail as one might find today.
Our service was a bit choppy, with too much hovering to clear dishes. Though a reservation was bungled, the apologies were swift and we were quickly accommodated.
Though the address’ original occupants likely never sampled the kind of food served by Bait, that’s no reason you shouldn’t—and soon.
"Seafood" - Google News
December 27, 2019 at 09:06PM
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Bait pairs beautifully presented seafood with the world's greatest French fries. - St. Louis Magazine
"Seafood" - Google News
https://ift.tt/34QTGRx
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